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CROCHET NECKLACE TUTORIAL – By Sandy Lupton
This crochet beading project is super easy so you can whip up several of them in no time. No need to buy a ton of supplies – you can use up assorted
beads and buttons that you have on hand. The more you mix them up, the more interesting the finished necklace
Assorted buttons, beads and charms
Small crochet hook
Nylon thread ( I used C-Lon Beading/Macrame cord)
2×2 crimp beads
Crimp pliers or flat nose pliers
For a 22-24” necklace, begin by loading about 60 beads, buttons and charms onto your nylon thread. Do not cut the thread to size—leave it on the spool. The bulky end of the spool acts as a stopper so your beads do not fly off the other end. This makes it really portable, and you never run out of thread before your project is finished. No measuring necessary! Tie a slip knot at the loose end of your thread to begin.
To give your necklace a nice strong base, do about 5 single crochet stitches to start. Pull your first bead/button down to your stitching and then do 2 or 3 crochet stitches by reaching past the bead/button with your hook. Don’t worry if the stitches are loose – they are supposed to be. Pull down your next bead and repeat. 2 stitches in between each bauble makes for a tighter bundled finished piece, 3 makes it a bit looser. Experiment to see what you like better.
Continue crocheting stitches and pushing down beads until you are satisfied with the length. I hold it up to my neck to measure so I don’t have to bring a ruler. It’s okay if you did not use up all the beads on your string. Do 5 stitches to end the piece, snip your thread to about 2″ long and pull the end thru the loop to make a knot. Hold one end in each hand and pull gently to tighten everything up.
Put a 2×2 crimp bead on one end of your necklace, snuggling it down to your 5-stitch base. Run the thread thru the ring on one side of your toggle and then back thru the crimp bead. You can use a crimp tool to professionally flatten the crip, or just flatten with flat nose pliers. Attach the other end of your necklace to the other toggle piece in the same manner. Trim your loose end threads to about an inch long and singe slightly with a lighter to prevent fraying. Crimping works better with the nylon thread because knots tend to slip. Cotton or waxed linen thread is suitable too, but not as durable.
EMBROIDERED & LAYERED SCARF TUTORIAL - by Sandy Lupton
This scarf project is a great way to use up some of those fabric scraps you have in your collection!
1 scarf sized piece of gauzy or silky background fabric – mine is 10″ x 60" hand dyed cotton gauze
Assorted scraps of cloth – hand dyed sheers, silks, cottons, organzas and cotton prints – this is the perfect opportunity to dig into your scrap or recycle bin!
Assorted floss – cotton, silk, DMC embroidery thread and embroidery needle
Decide on your finished scarf size. This one is about 10″ wide by 5 feet long but make it to suit your preference. Choose scraps in a combination of 3-4 colors. Trim your background fabric to size and start layering your scraps on top, overlapping pieces in an interesting composition. Tack down the layers on one side, then layer fabrics on the other side and tack them down as well, sewing through all the layers each time. Use your sheer fabrics to their best advantage by layering them over prints and contrasting colors.
I added repetition by sewing on circles cut from store-bought printed fabrics. Repetition helps to give the piece a cohesive look and keeps it from looking like you just threw it together. I also repeated the same fabrics and thread colors throughout.
I did not put any batting or heavy fabrics in between the layers because I wanted it to have a soft, flowing, scrunchy feel to it. I wanted it to wrap easily around the neck without a lot of bulk. I also did not want to have to embroider through all those heavy layers.
When you have your fabric sandwich like you want it, pull out your needle and threads and start stitching through all the layers. I left the knots exposed because i like the texture. I also like the random messy lines and rows and rows of running stitches. On the circles, I started in the middle, radiating the stitching out to the outer rims.
The edges were finished with a blanket stitch. This really helped the piece look complete. I used red thread to give your eye a bold stopping point. Hand wash, hang to dry.